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oxalis seed pods

This powder is mixed with some cream, sugar, and salt, and brought to a boil over medium heat. While the legs/gizzards were cooking, I finished the stock; I strained it and reduced it, continuing to skim until it was reduced by half. It’s just so damn pretty and interesting that I had to try growing some. I’m not great at doing the conversions in my head, I probably should have spotted that more obviously. I sliced the breast into several bite-sized portions, and placed these in the sauce. It’s then baked at 425F for just a few seconds, to allow the powder to melt. I then let it steep for 20 minutes or so, to allow the cream to absorb as much flavor from the peppercorns as possible. Very impressive! Fantastic job, you’re truly an inspiration!

A nice benefit to this is that I had lots of time to take more photos than I usually can. A couple of years ago, I did some experiments to wrap my head around the nuances of various types of sugars like those used here.

…and cut up a few others into bigger bits.

These bigger pieces were macerated for a while in a mixture of red wine and sugar. The amount used here yields something of the consistency of Key Lime Pie: a smooth, custardy texture that tastes either really lovely or like a church, depending on your polarization. After this has sweated for a few minutes (the book is very specific not to allow anything to brown to the point of caramelization), I transfer the mixture to a large stock pot, trying to keep out as much rendered fat as I can. This recipe starts with 4 whole squabs; I found these for about $12 a pop at Berkeley Bowl. I rinsed the legs and gizzards, and while they were left to drain in the sink, I toasted some thai long peppercorns. She conceded, however, that the raw strawberry dice were to her liking. I went out to our yard to do some glorious weeding, carefully collecting several dozen Oxalis pods. While the sugar was cooling, I diced up some more fresh strawberries into small dice…. So that’s a feather in my cap. Heh, thanks! Your attention to detail while cooking through this book is just exquisite and the photography is just out of this world. The longer you melt the powder, the more surface tension starts to take over and cause things to bead up into bubbles, so this really only needs to take a few seconds (the book mentions 6 minutes, which is way too long for my oven). Both the leaves and the seed-laden fruit of the Oxalis plant are edible. A minute after I started toasting them she called down from our loft “What are you doing down there? The last step before starting the plating process was collecting my garnishes. Oxalis might be the most annoyingly-vile weed ever. I packed the legs and gizzards separately into vacuum bags, and sealed them with some canola oil. Erect when young, this plantlater becomes decumbent as it lies down, and branches regularly. You can have as much of it as you want”. In this dish, the Oxalis pods are a tangy garnish for Squab, Strawberries, and Thai Long Peppercorn custard. I add some thyme, peppercorns, vermouth, and tomato paste, then let this mixture simmer for 5 hours. This dish as a whole is incredibly relaxing to make; it’s an exercise in patience rather than dexterity, so it made for a really nice weekend project. At the same time, I seared the tiny squab tenderloins, and let both of these rest while I assembled the rest of the plate. In high doses, Oxalic Acid is toxic and can be fatal, but chewing on leaves from an Oxalis plant gets us nowhere near these levels any more than a sip of vinegar poses a danger of death. I find squab to be an intoxicating flavor; when I worked with it last year, it was paired with foie gras and licorice, and I found the flavors to be over-the-top opulent and delicious. This is due to presence of Oxalic Acid (huh! The “hard crack” stage of cooking sugar (which is the point at which, if you cool your mixture, it forms a hard, crackable candy rather than something like taffy or syrup) is around 310F. Oxalis stricta, called the common yellow woodsorrel (or simply yellow woodsorrel), common yellow oxalis, upright yellow-sorrel, lemon clover, or more ambiguously and informally "sourgrass" or "pickle plant", is a herbaceous plant native to North America, parts of Eurasia, and has a rare introduction in Britain. The final step was placing a caramel square on top of the skewered Oxalis pods, and warming it gently with a kitchen torch to melt it into the pods. I chalked it up to the inclusion of the foie, but it turns out that squab itself is very rich and opulent. It looks a bit like clover, but it has these funky, torpedo-shaped ‘fruits’ it produces after flowering that, when touched in even the slightest way, launch seeds explosively and generously. Inclusion here helps offer a ‘buffer’ to the fondant and glucose (which CAN brown), because we ultimately do not want browned sugar for this recipe. I packed the legs and gizzards in this cure and left them in the fridge for a few hours.

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